Top things to see and do in Lucknow
Bara Imambara (with the Bhool Bhulaiya). The city's signature monument and the place to begin. This vast congregation hall was built from 1784 by Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula, the fourth Nawab of Awadh, as a famine-relief public-works project that kept thousands employed for years — a piece of social history baked into the architecture. Its central vaulted hall is one of the largest of its kind built without supporting pillars or external beams, an astonishing feat of engineering for its time. Above it winds the Bhool Bhulaiya, a genuine labyrinth of narrow interconnected passages and stairways — the only major maze of its kind in India — that eventually leads out onto the roof with fine views over the old city. It is genuinely disorienting, and you are strongly advised to explore it with an authorised guide rather than alone. The complex also contains the stepped Shahi Baoli (royal stepwell) and the Asafi Mosque. A single combined ticket usually covers the Bara Imambara together with the Chota Imambara and the Husainabad sights nearby; as a guide only, Indian-national entry has been a modest two-figure fee and the foreign-tourist ticket several times that, but prices are revised periodically, so verify current rates before visiting. Allow a good two hours.
Rumi Darwaza. The soaring gateway that has become Lucknow's emblem, standing between the two imambaras. Built around 1784 under Asaf-ud-Daula, it rises roughly 18 metres (about 60 feet) in an exuberant style of Awadhi architecture and is popularly called the "Turkish Gate," said to be modelled on a gateway in Constantinople (Istanbul) — hence "Rumi," a reference to the lands of Rome/Byzantium. It is free to admire from the street, and it is at its most photogenic in the soft light of early morning or when floodlit after dark.
Chota Imambara. A short walk from the Bara Imambara, this smaller but far more ornate hall was built from 1838 by Nawab Muhammad Ali Shah as his own mausoleum and that of his mother. Nicknamed the Palace of Lights for the profusion of chandeliers, mirrors and gilded decoration inside — many of the chandeliers brought from Belgium — it is spectacularly illuminated during Muharram. Its exterior calligraphy, silvered pulpit and reflecting pool make it, for many visitors, the most beautiful interior in the city. It is generally included on the combined Husainabad ticket; verify before visiting.
British Residency. One of India's most poignant historical sites, and a complete change of mood. This complex of colonial buildings was the seat of the British Resident and became the scene of the Siege of Lucknow during the uprising of 1857, when its defenders held out for months under bombardment. The ASI has preserved the ruins almost exactly as the fighting left them — walls pockmarked by cannon and musket fire, roofless halls, a quiet cemetery, and a small museum in the main building. Set in green, well-kept grounds, it is atmospheric, sobering and rarely crowded. There is a modest entry fee; verify before visiting.
Chattar Manzil. The "Umbrella Palace" on the banks of the Gomti, named for the gilded umbrella-shaped dome (chattri) crowning it. A striking blend of European and Nawabi architecture, it once housed the rulers of Awadh and their households. It is best appreciated from the outside as part of a walk through the riverside heart of old Lucknow; access to the interior has varied over the years, so check locally.
Hussainabad Clock Tower. Rising beside the Husainabad tank near the Chota Imambara, this Victorian-Gothic tower of the 1880s is often cited as the tallest clock tower in India, at roughly 67 metres. Built in cast iron in a British-influenced style, it makes a dramatic counterpoint to the Mughal-Awadhi domes around it. It is free to view from the surrounding park, which is a pleasant spot in the late afternoon.
Ambedkar Memorial Park. A vast, strikingly modern monument in the Gomti Nagar district on the far side of the river — a complete contrast to the old city. Built largely of red sandstone, this sprawling memorial to Dr B. R. Ambedkar, the principal architect of the Indian Constitution, covers around 100 acres and is laid out with domed pavilions, a central stupa, long processional galleries and rows of monumental bronze elephants. Floodlit at night, it is a dramatic sight and a favourite evening stroll for locals. There is a nominal entry fee; verify before visiting.
La Martinière. One of India's most extraordinary buildings, this flamboyant palace-turned-school was built as Constantia, the funerary monument and residence of Major General Claude Martin, a French-born officer who made his fortune in India in the 18th century. Its riotous mix of European and Indian styles has to be seen to be believed. Now a working school, it holds a unique distinction — reputedly the only school in the world to have been awarded a battle honour, for the role its pupils and staff played in the defence of Lucknow in 1857. As it is an active institution, exterior viewing and access depend on school permissions; enquire before visiting.
Hazratganj. Not a monument but an experience — Lucknow's elegant colonial-era shopping boulevard, laid out under the British and recently restored with uniform Victorian-style facades, ironwork and heritage street lamps. This is the city's social heart, lined with chikankari showrooms, bookshops, sweet shops, cinemas and cafés, and the classic Lucknawi pastime of an evening stroll here even has its own verb: ganjing. It is the best place to shop for chikankari and to feel the modern, relaxed side of the city.
Chowk and the old city. The dense, atmospheric old quarter around the imambaras is a destination in itself: a warren of lanes packed with chikankari workshops, attar (perfume) sellers, silversmiths, sweet-makers and legendary food stalls. It rewards slow, curious wandering — ideally in the cooler part of the day — and it is where the city's twin obsessions, embroidery and food, are both at their most authentic.