How to reach Khajuraho
Khajuraho's one genuine drawback is that it is not on a major transport artery. It sits somewhat apart from the main trunk railways and highways of central India, which is part of why the town has stayed small and unhurried, but it does mean that reaching it takes a little more planning than a hub city like Agra or Bhopal. The good news is that it has both its own airport and its own railway station, and both have improved markedly in recent years.
By air. Khajuraho has a dedicated airport — Khajuraho Airport (IATA code HJR), also called the Civil Aerodrome — located only a few kilometres from the town and the temples, which makes it the most convenient option if flight timings suit you. It is a small facility with a limited, seasonal roster of domestic flights, typically connecting to Delhi and Varanasi, sometimes routed via other cities, and the schedule changes from season to season and airline to airline. Because the flight roster is thin and changeable, treat air as a bonus rather than a certainty, and always confirm current routes and days of operation before you build a plan around them. When flights do run, the short transfer from the airport into town is a real luxury compared with the long road approaches.
By train. The town's station is Khajuraho (station code KURJ), a modern terminus about five to six kilometres from the Western Group of temples. It is well built but relatively lightly served — a modest number of trains call here each day rather than the constant flow you get at a junction. The most useful services are the direct connections to Delhi (including the long-running Sampark Kranti service to Hazrat Nizamuddin) and links toward Varanasi, Jhansi and other regional centres. Because the direct trains are limited, many travellers instead use one of the larger railheads within striking distance and continue by road: Mahoba (MBA) is the closest at roughly 75 kilometres, while Jhansi (JHS), about 170–175 kilometres away, and Satna (STA), around 115–120 kilometres, are major stations with far more frequent connections to Delhi, Mumbai, Bhopal and the south. Katni (KTE) is a further option. Since live timetables and seat availability change constantly, check current trains and fares in the search box on this page rather than relying on a fixed schedule.
By road. Khajuraho is connected by reasonable state and national highways to the towns of Bundelkhand and beyond. Common approaches are from Jhansi (about 170 km, four to five hours), often combined with a stop at Orchha; from Satna (about 120 km) for those arriving by train from the east; and from Panna (about 45 km) for visitors pairing the temples with a tiger safari. Private taxis, tourist coaches and state buses ply these routes. Roads have improved, but journeys are still slower than the distances suggest, so leave a comfortable margin, especially if you are connecting to a train or flight at the other end.
Getting around once you arrive. Khajuraho is small and refreshingly manageable. The Western Group and much of the town centre are walkable, and the compact core means you can cover a surprising amount on foot. For the Eastern and Southern groups, which are a little further out, cycle-rickshaws, auto-rickshaws and hired cars are inexpensive and easy to find; hiring an auto or taxi for a half-day to loop the outlying temples is a sensible, low-stress approach. Bicycles are also popular here — the flat lanes and short distances make cycling between temple clusters genuinely pleasant in the cool season. Agree fares before setting off, as you would anywhere, and consider engaging an ASI-licensed guide at the Western Group if you want the carvings explained properly.